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Brick pressure washing without wrecking the brick or the mortar

Brick looks like the toughest surface on the house. The face is tough. The mortar between the bricks is not, and on older homes the brick often is not either. Here is what each stain is, what a safe wash looks like, and when the job belongs to a mason.

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Around the house 10 min read

The short version

  • High pressure cuts mortar joints faster than it cleans brick, and on older soft brick it can take the fired face off with it.
  • White powder, green film, orange stain, and rust lines are four different problems. Each needs its own fix, and only one of them is really dirt.
  • Brick walls get a soft wash: a cleaner that kills the growth, time to work, and a low pressure rinse. Brick walks and steps can take more, with care for the joints.
  • Crumbling joints, flaking faces, and loose brick are a job for a mason. Washing them first only makes the repair bigger.

Why high pressure and brick do not mix

Brick gets its strength from the kiln. Firing leaves a hard outer skin on each brick, and the inside is more porous than the face. Mortar is softer again, and that is on purpose. A wall is built so the mortar is the part that gives, cracks, and gets replaced, because repointing joints is far cheaper than replacing brick.

A pressure washer at full power works against all of that. It cuts the joints first, because they are the softest thing on the wall. It drives water deep into the masonry, which then has to dry out back through the face. And where the fired skin is thin or already cracked, it strips it, leaving a rough, pale patch that soaks up water and dirt faster than the brick around it.

None of that shows on the day. The wall looks clean and wet. It shows a year later as sandy joints, a white bloom of salts, or brick faces that start to flake after a winter of freezing and thawing.

Older brick and soft mortar need even more care

A lot of the brick we see in Smithfield, Benson, and the older streets of Raleigh was laid long before modern brick standards. Older brick was often fired at lower temperatures, and it can be noticeably softer than what goes on a new house today. The mortar is often lime based, which is softer still and is meant to be.

Downtown storefronts are the extreme case. Many of those buildings carry a century of paint, patches, and repointing, sometimes with three different mortars in one wall. A wash that is fine on one section can erode the next. On those walls we test a small, out of the way area first, at the lowest pressure that does anything, and we look at the joints before and after.

Signs you are looking at soft, older masonry:

  • Brick that varies in size and color, with softened or rounded edges
  • Joints that are already recessed behind the face of the brick
  • Mortar you can scratch with a key
  • A sandy or powdery feel when you rub a joint with your thumb
  • Patches of harder, grayer mortar where someone repointed with a modern mix

If you can scratch the mortar with a key, assume it will not survive a pressure washer.

White powder, green film, orange stains: what is actually on the brick

Most calls about dirty brick are really about one of five things. They look alike from the street, and up close they are treated very differently.

What you seeWhat it usually isWhat it needs
White powder or crust, often low on the wall or under a window sillEfflorescence: salts carried out of the masonry by waterDry brushing, a light rinse, and finding where the water is coming from
Green or black film, worst on the north side and in shadeAlgae and mildewA soft wash that kills it, then a low pressure rinse
Orange or rust-red staining in the first two feet above the groundRed clay splashed up by rain, which is ironAn iron stain remover suited to masonry, not more pressure
Brown or orange streaks under a light, a railing, or a gutter strapRust from metal hardwareA rust treatment on that spot, and fixing or coating the metal
Green or yellow-green stains on light colored, newer brickOften vanadium salts from the clay itselfA specific cleaner. Strong acid can set this stain instead of removing it

The wrong guess costs you. Acid on the wrong stain, bleach on iron, or a soaking on top of an efflorescence problem all leave the wall worse than it started. When we are not sure what a stain is, we test a spot before we treat the whole wall.

Efflorescence is a water problem, not a dirt problem

Efflorescence is the white bloom people most often want pressure washed off, and it is the one where pressure does the least good. Brick and mortar contain soluble salts. When water moves through the wall and evaporates at the surface, it leaves those salts behind as a white powder or crust.

So the real question is not how to get the white off. It is where the water is coming from. New brick blooms for a season or two as construction moisture works out, and that usually fades on its own. Bloom that keeps returning on an older wall points at something: a gutter overflowing onto the brick, a downspout dumping at the foundation, a sprinkler hitting the wall every morning, a failed chimney cap, or a window sill sending water into the joint below it.

  • Brush it off dry first with a stiff nylon brush. A lot of it simply sweeps away.
  • Rinse lightly only if it is needed, then let the wall dry fully. Soaking the wall puts more water in and feeds the next bloom.
  • Heavy, hard crusts sometimes need a masonry cleaner made for efflorescence, applied to a wetted wall and rinsed well. That is careful work, not a blast.
  • Fix the water source, or the bloom comes back, usually by the next wet season.

If efflorescence keeps coming back in the same place, that part of the wall is wet more often than it should be. Washing will not fix it. A gutter, a sprinkler head, a sill, or a chimney cap usually will.

What a soft wash on brick looks like

Brick siding gets the same approach as any other wall on the house. The cleaner does the work and the water only carries it away. Here is how the visit goes.

1

Look at the joints first

Before anything gets wet we walk the wall for soft, sandy, or missing mortar, flaking brick faces, and cracks. Anything already failing gets left alone or flagged to you, not washed harder.

2

Wet the plants and the wall

Beds and shrubs get soaked first. Wetting the brick matters too, because dry, thirsty brick pulls cleaning solution deep into the face instead of letting it work on the surface.

3

Apply the cleaner at low pressure

A solution that kills algae and mildew goes on at roughly garden hose pressure, from the bottom up so it does not streak as it runs.

4

Give it time

Dwell time does what pressure cannot. The growth dies in place and lets go of the texture of the brick. Rushing this step is how crews end up reaching for more pressure.

5

Rinse from the top down

A low pressure rinse carries the solution and the dead growth off the wall, then the windows, the plants, and anything below get rinsed too.

6

Treat stains on their own

Red clay at the base or rust under a fixture gets its own treatment on that spot. It is not a reason to turn the whole wall up.

Brick is textured, so it holds growth deeper than vinyl does, and a heavily stained north wall can need a second application. That is still a better answer than pressure, for the reasons laid out in soft washing versus pressure washing.

Painted brick

Painted brick is a paint job first and a brick wall second. The cleaning has to suit the paint, which means low pressure and a soft wash, the same as painted siding. A pressure washer will lift any paint that is already loose and plenty that is not, and it drives water behind the film, where it blisters later.

If the paint is peeling anyway, washing is the first step of a repaint, not a fix. On a house built before 1978, that paint may contain lead, and disturbing it has rules. Test it before anyone strips or blasts it. Our guide to washing before exterior painting covers the right order of work.

One more caution. Painted brick holds moisture more than bare brick does, so peeling in one area often means water is getting in behind it. Find that before the next coat goes on.

Brick paver walks, steps, and patios

Brick on the ground is a different job from brick on the wall. Pavers and brick steps take foot traffic, hold water, and grow algae in the shade, which makes them slick. They can take more pressure than a wall, used through a flat surface cleaner rather than a wand held close.

The joints are what to watch. On sand-set pavers, the sand between the bricks is what locks them together, and any real cleaning washes some of it out. Plan to re-sand afterward, once the surface is dry, so the new sand settles all the way down. On mortared walks and steps, the joints get the same caution as on a wall. Soft or cracked mortar gets a gentler pass, and a loose brick on a step gets reported before somebody trips on it.

Front steps on older homes are often the most slippery surface on the property and the one older visitors use most, so they get our attention first. Paver patios, flagstone, and stamped concrete each have their own notes in cleaning a patio by surface.

Chimneys

A brick chimney is exposed on every side and takes rain from the top, so it is often the dirtiest brick on the house and the hardest to reach. The cleaning method is the same soft wash. What is different is what the staining tells you.

Dark streaks running down from the crown, white bloom on the chimney face or on an inside wall next to it, and mortar washing out of the upper courses are all signs that water is getting in. The usual causes are a cracked crown, a missing cap, or failed flashing where the chimney meets the roof. Those are jobs for a chimney professional or a mason. Washing makes the brick look better and does nothing for the leak.

We clean chimneys along with a roof wash or a full house wash. If we spot a crown or flashing problem while we are working, we tell you and show you what we saw.

When brick needs a mason, not a washer

A washer cleans brick. A mason repairs it. If you see any of these, call the mason first and wash after the repair has cured.

  • Mortar that is sandy, crumbling, or recessed well behind the face of the brick
  • Brick faces flaking, popping off, or pitting, which masons call spalling
  • Stair-step cracks running through the joints, or cracks through the brick itself
  • Loose brick on steps, wall caps, or the top of a chimney
  • Efflorescence that keeps returning in one spot after the water source is fixed
  • Hard, gray modern mortar in soft old brick, with the brick cracking or wearing away beside the joints

That last one matters on older homes. Mortar should be softer than the brick it holds. When a hard mortar is used to repoint soft brick, the brick becomes the weak point and starts to fail around the joints. A mason who works on older buildings will match the mortar to the brick. A pressure washer will only speed up whatever is already happening.

Washing before repointing is fine and often helpful, because the mason can see the joints clearly. Washing hard over failing joints is not. If you are unsure which you have, ask us to look at the wall before you book either one.

Brick and concrete on one visit

Most brick houses around here have a driveway, a front walk, and a porch slab, and they all drain onto each other. The right order is walls first and concrete and flatwork last, so nothing we clean above runs onto a slab we already finished. That is how we handle brick homes and brick storefronts across Raleigh, Clayton, Smithfield, Benson, and Garner.

Send us a photo of the wall and a close-up of one joint. That usually tells us whether we are looking at a wash, a stain treatment, or a call to a mason. Call (919) 698-3669.

Our work

What this looks like finished

White vinyl siding and brick foundation after a soft wash by Clayton Pressure Washing
House wash, vinyl siding
Concrete walkway with one half pressure washed clean and the other still stained
Walkway, half cleaned
Brick paver patio being surface cleaned, clean pavers emerging beside dirty ones
Paver patio, surface cleaning
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Questions

Asked and answered

Can you pressure wash brick?
Brick walks and pavers can take moderate pressure through a surface cleaner. Brick walls should be soft washed instead. Mortar is softer than brick on purpose, and it is the first thing high pressure damages.
What pressure is safe for brick?
There is no single safe number, because brick and mortar vary so much from house to house. On walls we apply the cleaner at about garden hose pressure and rinse gently. On ground brick we use moderate pressure through a surface cleaner. Older soft brick gets less still, after a test patch.
How do I get the white powder off my brick?
That is efflorescence, salts left behind as water dries out of the wall. Brush it off dry first, rinse lightly only if needed, and find the water source. If a gutter or sprinkler keeps wetting that spot, the bloom will come back no matter how it is cleaned.
Will washing remove red clay from the bottom of my brick?
Usually, but not with pressure. Red clay is iron, and it needs an iron stain remover suited to masonry. Moving downspouts and adding mulch or gravel along the foundation keeps it from splashing back up.
Should I seal my brick after cleaning?
Usually not with a coating. Brick needs to dry out through its face, and a film-forming sealer can trap moisture and make the face flake. Breathable water repellents exist for specific problems, and that is a decision to make with a mason.
Can you clean an older brick storefront downtown?
Yes, with a test patch first and the lowest pressure that works. Older storefront brick and lime mortar are soft. We schedule commercial work before opening or after close.
Do you clean brick and concrete in Raleigh?
Yes. Brick walls, brick steps, and the concrete in front of them on one visit, walls first and flatwork last. We cover Raleigh, Garner, Clayton, Smithfield, Benson, and the towns around them.
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